Sunday, March 30, 2008

Sunsets and Scooters, Kho Lanta


We've been on the laid back island of Kho Lanta for a few days now. Everything is slow here, the people are friendly and the warm water is refreshing. Sunset is the best part of the day, we have a 180% view of the breathtaking golden colors in the sky and the peaceful coastline. 




We've explored most of the island on motorbikes. It's a great way of discovering the places we visit. We only paid 250 Baht per day. Johnny ended up with a really old bike so it's been pretty hilarious trying to repair minor problems. Yesterday we ran out of gas 3 times. They only hold 2 liters at a time and there are very steep hills that eat it up quickly. Luckily almost every shop has a barrel of gas. Muslim women fill up our tank with a hand pumped barrel of gas. Somehow he also managed to loose the ignition key to Johnny's bike while driving! All of the sudden the engine puttered to a stop before he realized it. We were a good 10 miles outside of the village but luckily a local women saw us and came up the dirt road to help. Eventually we got it started. We never found the key so we had to rig the ignition switch.



We headed to the south east part of the island and had lunch at a very nice lookout point. We continued on until we found a sea gypsy fishing village at the end of the island where all of the houses are on stilts.

We rented the motorbikes on Long Beach and are now staying further down the island. We left our bags at the first place so we could look for another bungalow. We eventually found a quant guesthouse right on the beach but were then faced with getting our bags from our first place. Luckily the owner here had a Tuk Tuk that we could borrow. That was interesting!!! I was very happy to have my feet on the ground after that trip! They are very difficult to drive apparently but Johnny did a great job. The Tuk Tuk was also a manual which took some getting used to. We some curious glances from all of the locals as we sputtered by at 20 miles an hour, laughing so much that our checks hurt.



The next morning we woke up early and stopped in a coffee shop for "real coffee" and a homemade coconut pie. The owner's name was Ya. We asked him where some good places to go exploring were and he told us that we could take the small road behind his shop to a cave and mountain, and he offered to lead us up the winding path. We stopped at this home which happened to be on the way so we could see how he lived. An entire room was dedicated to his shrine. He explained his shrine and Buddhas that he prays to. It was very touching. Ya enlightened us on meditation and the importance of the body's balance with Earth and the gods. We were invited to pray. Ya told us of the proper way to sit while praying.. keep your head high to the gods, quiet your mind... Ya had a very meger home but it was filled high with love and apperciation of natural beauty. I remember the bright sunlight shinning through the big cracks in the wooden floor. He also taught us about his rubber trees. The trees have a bucket at the bottom and the rubber sap drips in. When it is full, he can take it market to see for a decent amount of money. He must tend to them every day. There was a creek that ran next to his home and he was widening it to change the flow of the water to it wouldn't flood. 



After that, we followed the curve to the right on a small dirt road through a rubber tree plantation and stumbled upon Tiger Cave. We didn't see any tigers but there were elephants!!! The island is mostly jungle with steep mountains. After the cave we stopped at the corner shop for another liter of gas and drinking water. The kids had a pet monkey and we were able to touch his palm and feel his fur! Next we continued southeast and rode into the National Park. We saw monkeys in the wild here!! They we sitting right by the road and we were only about 5 feet away from them. The coast line was stunning and we swam in the warm water during sunset.



That night Alex and I rode into town and had a nice meal by ourselves. We spent Saturday and today relaxing on the beach reading books. Can't complain! In the evenings we play Yahtzee and Jenga under the stars.



I think we may travel to Tonsai tomorrow. Johnny says that he will join us for a few more days, but will be getting back to Bangkok soon. It'll be nice to have some one on one time with Alex although we have really enjoyed having Johnny around.

One evening we heard classic rock playing at a beach bar nearby. It was late and all of the restaurants were already closed. The waiter said that he could make us "something easy" for dinner. We still aren't sure what we were given, but we ate every bite. The bar tender caught our attention becuase he was stabbing the bar with a huge knife. Johnny volunteered to spread out his fingers on the bar. The bar tender stabbed the knife quickly around Johnny's fingers in a pattern. I thought that was enough, but just then he went to the back and brought out an axe and does the same thing! Just when were thought we had seen everything, the bar tender goes behind the bar again and pulls out a power drill!! We do have pictures to document Johnny's bravery. He was offered a shot of something in a clear bottle as a reward, which turned out to be Money Brains!! There was another bottle on the top shelf with monkey sperm and a thrid with cobra whiskey. Don't want to know what you have to do to get a swig of that! lol 

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Train ride to Koh Lanta Island, Krabi Provence, Southwest Thailand

We are in paradise! We arrived Tuesday evening after a 16 hour train ride followed by an additional 3 hour van/ferry trip. Kho Lanta is a tiny island in the Provence of Krabi. The water here is a blue/green turquoise and the white sand sinks perfectly between my toes.



The train ride was quite an experience. Our only option was 3rd Class. I must say that one of the only good things about it was that it only cost $750 Baht for all 3 of us (about $8). We sat on broken benches and there were no AC or suitable restrooms. We quickly encountered the dinning car that was decorated like a disco. Flashing Christmas lights strung all around the car added to the ambiance of the dancing music and festivities.

Guards dressed in full military gear hung out at the back table of the disco car drinking buckets of whiskey and coke. Each stop they jumped out onto the tracks, adjusted their military cap and saluted passengers as they boarded. As the wheels began rolling, the guards resumed their positions in the disco car sipping whiskey from bucket through a straw.

Passengers from all across different walks of life were present. Music bumped through the open windows as we passed small farming towns in the middle of the night. I remember a full moon. At one point, Johnny told the DJ that is was my birthday so "Happy Birthday" played over the speakers as everyone sang to me. That really got the party started! The guards and other travelers were dancing recklessly and having a good time drinking heavily! That part was great fun while it lasted. The remainder of the trip was not so much.

We stumbled back to our broken bench in 3rd class. At one point Johnny asked the Thai girl sitting next to him if she would like to lean against him to sleep. She declined so he shrugged his shoulders, gave her a quick glance, and laid his head on hers. He passed out immediately. The poor girl stayed there for hours with Johnny snoring on her shoulder.

Alex ended up laying out his sleeping mat under our benches on the floor to stretch out. Venders boarded at each stop throughout the night selling coffee, sweets, chicken wrapped in banana leaves, etc. Each time we drifted off into sleep we were abruptly awoken with someone stepping over us trying to sell us something.

16 hours later and we arrived in Trang at 10:30 am. We grabbed a bite to eat, found a decent restroom (much needed) and took a van and ferry to the island Koh Lanta. This area was effected by the Tsunami so everything has since been rebuilt. People here look different than those in Bangkok. Their skin is much darker and they have big eyes and round faces. They are mainly farmers.

We stayed at "Somewhere Else" Bungalow right on the beach for $800 baht/night. It is much more expensive than we expected but it's very comfortable. There are seating areas with triangle floor pillows that we like to relax at in the evenings as the sun sets. The water is a breathtaking blue. Yesterday we walked all along Long Beach and collected beautiful colored seashells. We hope to rent a motor bike today to explore the rest of the island.





Alex and I are so excited to be here! He is really amazing and I am so lucky to experience paradise with him.

~Loranda

Saturday, March 22, 2008

Samphran Elephant Zoo and Site Seeing in Bangkok



Johnny's land lady Yui and her family treated us to an elaborate brunch at a swanky hotel in downtown Bangkok. The food was delicious! There was an entire room filled with mouthwatering cuisine. It was nice to eat at a proper setting in the air conditioning. Yui's husband, their 3 kids and Grandma were all very welcoming and generous. They own the apartment building that Johnny lives in as well as a chicken farm and coffee plantation. They supply the delicious coffee to the hotel that we eat at. When we came into the banquet room, nice relaxing dinner music was playing.

We loaded our plates with incredible variety. This was the first full blown feast since Texas. We were all pleased with the selections.

As soon as the waitresses saw the "Farongs", they immediately pulled Alex and Johnny up to the stage to sing karaoke. Alex sang Desperado. Next Johnny sang his classic "Noting but a hound dog." It was the funniest thing because everyone was peacefully enjoying their nice meal and here were two Americans singing on stage at 11 in the morning!! Thai's are really serious about karaoke. I took some hilarious videos of them on our camera.



Next we went to the Samphran elephant and crocodile zoo! I was really looking forward to this! First we saw teenage boys wrestling crocodiles. There must not be any laws about child labor. The third boy could not have been a day older than 8 years old. The boys stick their entire head inside the croc's mouth! I had to turn away sometimes as my nerves were getting to me. However, the boys seemed to we extremely comfortable with the ferocious reptiles. After the show, we got to hand feed the crocs raw bat meat. They were very docile until the meat was right above their nose. They opened their jaws wide and snapped them shut before you could blink.

Next, we went to the large stadium for the elephant show. The crew puts on a big production with lights, sounds and smoke! The performers enacted how elephants where used in the past to pull heavy things, help with building houses and also that they were being hunted for tusks, etc. They also reenacted Thailand's independence from Burma with cannon fire, large explosions and sword fighting.

Then the fun began! The elephants were trained to play musical instruments, kick soccer balls into the goal and do hand stands. After the show we purchased bamboo sticks and bananas for 10 Baht. We walked right up and hand feed the majestic creatures. Elephant skin is rough and their hair is very coarse. One of them extended it's trunk and reached out to hold my hand. It felt like he was giving me a hug around my arm. Although they are large, these were very gentle creatures. Asian elephants are actually much smaller than African elephants.

We took a few videos of the performance. We really enjoyed the opportunity of getting so close to the elephants.



Today we went back into downtown Bangkok to see the reclining Buddha at Wat Pho Temple. It was magnificent. It's enormous and takes up an entire building. The temple itself covers 20 acres. The Buddha is 46 meters long and 15 meters tall. He is designed to illustrate the passing of the Buddha into nirvana.

We took the sky train to the Jatujak Market (JJ) which is a wholesale venue. Anything and everything is available there. Street stalls span for miles in every direction. It's easy to get lost in the maze. Luckily they have it divided into sections. There one for clothing, wood carvings, jewelry, antiques, etc. We could have spent days here.

At 6 p.m. we are arrived at a garden party at Johnny's friend's house. Boaz and his wife are both artists. He's a photographer and she's a painter. Their home is smack dab in the middle of downtown Bangkok and is very modern in style. The downstairs is primarily used as a studio and the living quarters are on the second floor. We enjoyed sitting in the terrace drinking Hong Thong whiskey and freshly imported olives from Dubai. Several other photographers arrived so we had plenty of interesting conversation. They were all ex-pats living in Thailand and we enjoyed their company immensely.

In the morning Johnny needs to go to the state department on official business and then we will catch the train to the beach!!

We love you,
Loranda and Alex

Friday, March 21, 2008

Our first excursion without Johnny! Bangkok

Hello there! We have spent a couple of days in the hustle and bustle of Bangkok and Alex and I are both looking forward to the beach white sand and relaxation!

Yesterday was our first time to go into town without Johnny and it is much different without him to translate. We were definitely marked as "Forongs" (foreigners). We made it back home so that was a big accomplishment! We actually did very well for not being able to communicate much. We stopped in for our morning "cafe yen" (iced milk coffee) in a plastic bag for 12 Baht and then jumped on the local bus.

To get into town, we head up Soi Bat to the Big C, cross over the highway and catch bus 76. The buses are have no air con so having the windows upen is much apperciated. It begins to fill up with people on their morning commute. Once we cross over the river, we get off to catch a water taxi. The bus is only 15 Baht and it takes about an hour to get into the heart of the city.

We wandered in a temple. There were several monks sitting on the floor infront of a shrine of Buddha, lighting incense. This was our first encounter- we silently observed with intense interest.

Next we weaved through the maze of streets and made it into the heart of downtown. We found the famous Reclining Buddha but it was closed. We will definitely come back before we leave.

Alex and I walked around the little neighborhood alley ways. It is just indescribable to explain the living conditions. There are people everywhere!! We walked down one alley and there was a one room house with the door open. The family of 5 was gathered around, sitting in Indian style on the floor. There were 4 dogs tied to a table. 4 dogs and 5 people living in a one room house. Seems like it might be a little cramped for my style.

The street stalls are abundant. The blistering heat of the day combined with steaming street food is overwhelming. The is so much going on in every direction. Tuk-tuks fly by and motorbikes loaded beyond capacity are nothing unusual. It's difficult to walk down the sidewalk without bumping shoulders. It's necessary to stop for a fresh pineapple snack and ice cold coke to refresh.

In the evenings we unwind around Johnny's neighborhood and get to know to some of the locals. His favorite bar in called Long Dang. (It doesn't translate correctly in English!) It's the local hangout. Teeny boppers go crazy over for the live music. We had a personal waitress who stood at the end of our table refilling our drinks after every sip and made sure that we have fresh ice cubes. Now that's service!

There is live music in every bar and restaurant, not matter how big or small. It's either karaoke or a cover band. We were at a hole in the wall outdoor karaoke bar and a group of people invited us to go up to sing and dance. We were quite the spectacle! While Alex and Johnny sang "You're nothing but a hound dog," one guy invited me up to dance. It was pretty hilarious!

There is also a new mega bar across the highway called Holland Beer. It's very out of place. It's about the size of half a football stadium, there must be 500 tables and chairs. The stage is the size of a concert hall. It's so funny to see the elaborate productions that they put on every night of the week! They had an 8 piece band, lights and TV screens broadcasting the performance. The singers had elaborate costume changes after each song. The beer is served by the yard. The waiter attaches a plastic tube to your table. Could we ask for more?

For dinner we went to a buffet where the meat is raw. You select what you want and then take it to your table to cook on a hot pot. There are also fresh vegetables for seasoning. It's an interesting concept because the buffet definitely does not look very appetizing but it's neat that you cook the food at your own table. All of the restaurants are outside so there in no escaping the heat. After finishing the meal, we realized that the hot pot was adding to the uncomfortable evening heat. It is customary to leave the dishes on the table until the guests leave but we just couldn't take it any longer. We had 3 waiters servicing us so Johnny waived one of them down and, as politely as he could, motioned "YOU, get THAT outta here!" We died laughing and felt much better after the hot pot wasn't steaming all over us. After all, our ice cubes where melting in our Singha.

We really enjoy staying with Johnny and love that we have the ability to experience the Thai lifestyle.

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

We have arrived! Soi Bat and Downtown Bangkok

Hi everyone!!! WE MADE IT!!! The flight wasn't as bad as we anticipated, the plane had individual TV screens and we watched movies and played games to make the time pass. We were able to sit in bulk head seats from LA to Taipei so we had plenty of leg room and the ability to stretch out. We traveled 27 hours total- across the date line. Although our bodies were exhausted, our minds were full of anticipation.

We arrived at 2 am. After waiting impatiently in the Immigration line, Johnny was there to met us at the airport. As we approached him, he was standing with several security guards. I thought, "oh no, what is he up to now?" As we got a little closer I realized that he had taken the guard's walkie-talkie and was pretending to run off with it. The guards were dressed in full military gear but had friendly smiles and laughs for Johnny, the crazy "forong."

We walked out into the humidity and negotiated a fair price for a taxi. Johnny lives off of "Soi Bat" in a suburb of Bangkok. This is perfect for really experiencing how the locals live. You exit the 16 lane super highway and turn left just before Big C, the Thai equivalent of Wal-mart. (More hilarious stories about this favored location later.) Soi Bat is a clean 6 lane lane street with a tree lined median. Flowers are manicured by the Thai government and really enhance the beauty of the area. On either side there are small outdoor eateries, Buddhist temples and even a local bar or two. About a half mile down, turn right just before a new apartment complex that's under construction. Johnny's building is white and is 5 stories tall. It has red and white striped awnings. There is a nice seating area on the front porch with a coy pond and fountain. The washing machines are located on the front steps. There's even a little convenient store and barber shop.

We dropped our bags upstairs and went down for a much needed Sing Ha beer over ice. It is extremely hot and humid here, we weren't expecting for it to be so hot even early in the morning. We haven't slept yet, luckily we got plenty of sleep on the plane (thanks for the sleeping pills!) We sat in the veranda surrounded by ivy's and talked into sunrise. The fish tanks made a nice humming sound and mosquitoes loved my bare Texas legs.

As the sun rose overhead we walked across Soi Bat to an authentic floating village on the river. It is incredible to see how people live, tiny one room apartments with several family members, no kitchens or AC. Many set up a table right outside their door and sell fresh fruits, meat and coffee for others. We came across a small play ground were we got a few strange glances as we were clearly the only Westerners around.

We jumped on the back of a motorbike taxi and stopped in Johnny's morning coffee stand. Thai iced milk coffee in a plastic bag for $0.12! It was be best we've ever had!! There was a man with a news paper, school kids in uniforms and people weaving in and out of each other on their way to work. Welcome to the hustle and bustle of Bangkok!

We cross the catwalk over the highway and hopped on a crowded local bus headed downtown. We didn't get very far before we had to evacuate because our bus scrapped the side of a car. The streets are filled with people, scooters, bikes, tuk-tuks and cars with no regard to traffic lanes or sidewalks. You must be fearless to drive in this organized insanity! You'll see 3 adults and a small child zooming by on one bike. There is no limit on how much or what they can carry with them.

Johnny is really amusing and it's a huge help to have him around because he speaks enough Thai to get us from one place to another and joke around with the locals. Everyone we've crossed paths with is friendly and has a pleasant sense of humor.

We explored China Town, saw many ornately decorated temples, grand palaces and monuments of the King. We enjoyed roaming the endless streets with wholesale venders, sweltering street food and independent shops selling anything you can imagine (from Hello Kitty alarm clocks to intricately hand carved wooden sculptures.)

We whizzed around in a tuk-tuk *so much fun* and took a water taxi around the area for 7 Baht. Lunch was $1 each, including cokes in a glass bottle. We negotiated a free ride with the tuk-tuk driver but the deal was that we had to go to 5 different shops first. It was a good way to kill time and see the area. Everyone was happy except for the shop owners who tried desperately to sell us beautiful but terribly expensive rugs, jewelry and tailor made suits. We knew what we were getting into, it was all about having a fun filled afternoon. We've already seen so much and we've only been here a few hours!

We are going to stay here until approximately Sunday and then head south to a beach town named Krabi. We are really looking forward to getting out of the big city and relaxing on a quite beach. Bangkok is fascinating and there is so much going on in every direction. The streets are literally endless and venders are everywhere.

We have a nice place to stay and a refreshing shower made all the difference. We miss and love you all!

"Sa wa dee kah" from Bangkok,
Loranda, Alex and Johnny

Friday, March 14, 2008

And we're off! Love from Austin


Well friends and family, the time is HERE! Up to this point, the trip has been a long lived day dream and now it's about to become reality. It's been so wonderful spending time with each of you individually. We deeply cherish those moments and will think of you often. I have pictures of all of you on my iPod which will come in handy if I start feeling homesick. We set off early Monday for a 26 hour flight. We arrive in Bangkok to be reunited with our friend Johnny whose been teaching English and expanding his photography portfolio there for about a year.

We imagine that we will stay in the city for a few days and then head south to the lovely Thai beaches. There we will find small village towns with turquoise water, incredible sea life, warm temperatures and friendly faces. I've read about a place where we can find elephants playing soccer! At this point, everything is imaginary and I know that there is no way to fully prepare myself for all that we are about to experience.

I've come to realize over the past few weeks that I am a person of familiarity. I've always held my treasures near to me and I feel comfortable in the presence of my friends, family, and yes Little Bear. Very soon I will be standing in the street of a completely unfamiliar place where I can not read or speak. This will be the longest I've been apart from home. I've tried to soak in the feeling of being near all of you and remember how that feels. I know now that I must carry that confidence in my heart in order to unearth my true self. No matter where I am, I am me. I intend to allow my mind to be stretched beyond it's boundaries...

I'm eager about the reality of immersing myself in a culture which I know very little about but have a strong desire to become aquainted with. There is so much to learn; new tastes and smells to encounter, new religions to explore, new languages and customs to partake in. I appreciate this rare opportunity and will do my best to experience each occasion to it's fullest potential.

My goal for this journey is to find my awareness and proceed with clarity.


Love from Austin~
Loranda