Day 3- Into the Groove

It didn't take long for us to settle into the slow pace of life in Nerja. Nothing opens before noon and so we don't miss mush except the sunrise by sleeping in.

The coffee here is too strong for my taste. The only redeeming quality about it is the giant mountain of whipped cream that comes on top of the cappuccinos. There is no drip coffee anywhere in sight- it's all made from an espresso machine. After adding a packet of pure sugar and mixing the whipped cream in, it's drinkable. Gives me the shakes- and you all know I'm all about the good stuff. Life is just too short for bad coffee.

After saying hello to all the regulars at the beach, we settle back into the next chapters of Kon-Tiki and Animal Farm. Just after Old Major calls a meeting with all the farm animals, it's time for lunch!

We split boquerones en vinagre, melon y jamon de serrano and the fish of the day, the giant Groper from the display case which comes with a delicious baked potato! Tasty!

After the 2nd round of coffee for the day (I learned my lesson after this), the friendly waitress brings out 4 shots of caramel vodka in chilled shot glasses. Eeeyah! Tastes like medicine!

Every few minutes someone will walk by trying to sell you stuff. Africans come across and sell anything from sunglasses, musica, DVD popular, soccer jerseys, wooden carvings and jewelry. Locals sell sundresses and sarongs. There is a Chinese woman who gives EXCELLENT massages (although she got in trouble with the police for not having a permit so she had to stop) and 2 old Spanish men who have been there since Alex can remember selling a selection of fruit yelling "Tutti Fruiti" and delicious hot salted almonds.

The people who sell the sarongs have come up with an entertaining way of displaying their merchandise. Twice a day they come to the same spot in front of our beach chairs. After laying out their props, he'll ring a bell to get everyone's attention. Then, the fashion show begins!! He and his young helper model several sarongs and demonstrate ways to wear them. They literally STRUT up and down the beach as if they were on a runway. It's an entertaining performance... and IT WORKS!!! By the time the bell rings to signify the end of the demonstration, women from all directions rush up to get the best pick. They have a simple business plan and make a killing!

 After getting some work done at Kronox, we head back to the apartment to freshen up for dinner. Tonight we were going to a fish restaurant. It doesn't look like much- it's mostly outdoor seating and a bar inside. Even at 10PM it's still light out so it feels much earlier than it is.

For starters, we had fried anchovies, fried baby fish that looked like minnow (which I had to decapitate) and delicious fresh scallops served in the shell which were prepared Pil-Pil style in a garlic oil concoction. Fresh tomato salad and papas fritas with salt and vinegar were passed around the table. For the main course, we all had another local specialty, a whole sole doused in lemon juice. After removing the head, I actually enjoyed de-boning the sole now that I know how. First you cut down the middle then along the top and bottom. Pull the meat from the middle out, and remove it from the rest. The meat slides right off the bones!

After enjoying 4 bottles of red wine between us, we joked saying we should have order the Jeroboam instead. The waiter brought out complimentary Baileys shots and dark chocolate squares with ice cream inside. Oh yeah!

After a delicious meal, we wandered back to the main square and resumed our usual spot at the Mediterraneo Cafe. The men had Carlos Primeros and we all enjoyed people watching and the cool evening breeze.

Someone noticed a picture of Katie, Vanessa and Francesco the owner or the cafe on the wall. It was taken a year before, at the Spain vs Portugal World Cup game! Too funny!

The wind and waves were stronger than night and every few minutes a wave would crash as high as the largest cliff under the Balcon. The view from the apartment is priceless and soon it'll be a full moon!

Day 2- Cumpleaños de Ricardo Bueno

Jet lag from West to East is a doozie. With a 7 hour time difference, it took several days for me to adjust.

I was faced with the opportunity to eat fresh Sardines. Although I try to be open minded about trying new foods, I'm not a fan of anything with a head and eyes on it, so luckily these came in an eatable form for me! Pam demonstrated how to eat them, and since it was "Pam approved," I felt at ease :)  I've now come to realize that just about anything tastes good with fresh lemon squeezed on top! First you take a few nibbles then peel back the bones from the top end and remove them. You can even eat the tail if you choose.

For the main course we shared Almejas de Carril which are large clams specifically from Carril, Spain. They are prepared with a white wine lemon garlic oil. I also found another favorite dish, Gambas a Pil Pil which are shrimp in a delicious chili oil. Both sauces are amazing! Perfect for dipping your fresh bread in!

After a relaxing nap on the beach, we began the birthday festivities for Richard. Grant had a bottle of nice cava delivered to the beach. What a nice way to celebrate!

I am managing things at work while I'm out so I started the weekday routine of logging on to wifi and taking care of business. I was able to get enough done in a two hour window- my early evening, their afternoon. I was very fortunate to be able to travel so checking in once a day was a fair compromise. Kronox Cafe in the main square has "tankes" of beer, tapas with Spanish olives and Manchego cheese, free wifi, and lots of people watching available. Not too shabby! I absolutely LOVE tapas! It's a small portion and perfect for a light meal or snack. Bliss!

For the birthday dinner, we went to the top rated restaurant in Nerja- Sollun. It was probably the best dining experiences I have ever had. Not only was every bite irresistible, but Chef Juan Quintanilla adds a personal touch to the experience. He passionately describes his recommendations and will even bring out the cut of meat and illustrates how he will prepare it. The restaurant is quaint with maybe 8 tables, and he and his wife walk you through each step of the meal. He personally takes your order, rushes back to the kitchen, and hand delivers a delicious work of art on each plate. He is quickly on his way to a Michelin Star.

Day 1- Acapulco Playa

We arrived in Málaga at 10 am after an overnight flight. Alex's Dad kindly arranged a taxi for us so after hunting for our luggage, in the newly expanded baggage claim (Non EU section), we scanned all the taxi drivers holding signs until we saw one with "MacDonald" on it. This was the first time we had ever had this luxury! We always laugh at this anytime we arrive somewhere, and even made friends with a taxi driver holding a sign when we met Kevin at the Bali airport a few years back. We got a kick out of having our own private, prearranged car and driver- this was a first. When arriving to Nerja in the past, Alex would need to from the airport to the bus station and catch a bus  (hoping for the "Express" bus, Line 75) from Málaga 50 km to the coast, but this time we went in style! 


The landscape is breathtaking! I have never seen so many rolling mountains and green hills- they extend indefinitely in every direction. The air is cool and crisp, and the sun is shining. We take the "new" (10 years old) highway direct to Nerja for about an hour. The old road wound up and down- over the mountains and took twice as long. Although the new highway is more effecient and modern, the old road takes you down the shore and was the path to historic landmarks such as turrets. I'd have to keep my eyes open for one of those. 

There are greenhouses (main crop is tomatoes) and olive fields pressed on the side of steep cliffs. 

Pam & Grant are anxiously awaiting us. We slip on our bathing suites and head straight for the beach! 

Huge cliffs fall sharply to the sand below. Tropical plants and flowers blanket the edge and beach umbrellas are scattered down below. 

We are greeted by Paco, the fellow who runs the beach chairs in front of the Monte Mar Restaurant. He spots Alex from a mile away, and gives us a big hug as soon as we get within arm's reach. Paco shows us to our reserved chairs on the second row, and Grant & Pam take their place in front of us. Niccccce!! Time to kick back and relax!


We are introduced to Richard & Elsie Good (later to be referred to a Ricardo Y Chelsea Bueno) who are long time friends of the MacDonalds. Their daughters Liana & Vanessa are childhood friends of Jamie, Alex, Katie, Kristi & Andrew, and because of this the parents have become best friends. Being Scottish, there was an instant connection and the couples often plan their holidays at the same time as each other. 


We mosey over to Monte Mar for a fabulous Sunday lunch of paella especial! With sand under our feet, we enjoy fresh clams, mussels, lobster, peel & eat shrimp and chicken. It was delicious! 

I quickly learned that this trip was going to be an exploration in wonderful Spanish foods so now I intend to share my new found knowledge with you (hope you find the food as interesting as I do). For dinner that night, we dine on the patio of the small square under street lamps. Casa Luque also serves Carlos Imperial, a fine Spanish brandy. Salud! 

Next Adventure- España and Morocco!

I've really been looking forward to making the journey to Spain. Alex's family spent almost every summer holiday here as kids, and I've heard countless stories about their time there. Alex considers it his "first home," as it's been a constant throughout his entire life. No matter where else he's lived, their apartment in Spain was just a hop, skip and a jump away.

We were very thankful that Alex's Mum was able to stay at the house and look after Loki and Aries. It gave me great peace of mind, and I hope that she enjoyed her time here as well.


We would be based in Nerja, España which is located in a beautiful spot on this great Earth, along the Coasta del Sol. It's along Spain's Mediterranean Coast, about 50 km from Málaga. 

Alex's Dad first visited 37 years ago, after seeing an advertisement for it in a British travel magazine. Alex was 2 weeks old when they purchased a small apartment hanging over the edge of a massive cliff, which overlooks a stunning coastline and a full moon. It was love at first sight. 

As kids, Alex and his brothers and sisters spent their summers here- they have memories about eating fruit on the beach, playing mini golf, sneaking into the pool late a night, jumping off the highest cliffs, getting into mischief at the Tutti Fruit, making life long friends and much more. 


I was really excited to get there and experience it for myself! And so, the adventures continue.. 

AHH! More on Roatan ASAP- gotta write about Spain while it's fresh on my mind.

West End Wall

Our first dive was at West End Wall. It was a small group, just Alex and I, our Instructor Joe and another Aussie named Mark. We told Joe about our adventures in Indonesia and Vietnam, so he knew he had a lot to live up to! lol

Roatan exceeded our expectations by far! We had an incredible first dive- I'm unable to express this into words. Diving is such an amazing experience. It enables you to explore an underwater paradise and immerse yourself in a delicate ecosystem which most of us go about our daily lives ignoring. I remember the first time I went snorkeling in Belize. I could literally stand in knee deep water and see the horizon, the sky, the clouds, birds, flowers, palm trees. When I dipped my head underwater, there were beautiful tropical fish and brightly colored coral right underneath the surface, for as far as I could see. At that moment I realized that there is a whole other world down there. My mind had just expanded. I wanted more.

West End Wall is on the lee side of a plateau where an underwater ridge slopes down to the western tip of the reef. It's home to pillar coral which can grow up to 8 feet tall, Azure Vase sponges, barrel sponges (also known as the redwood of the deep), dog snapper, horse eyed jacks, Spotted Eagle Rays, and much much more!

This area is known as a pelagic zone or open water zone because it's not near the ocean floor. On the other side of the wall is the blue abyss.

If you looked close enough, tiny coral banded shrimp were everywhere.They dance in the palm of your hand. King Crab and HUGE Lobsters hid in coral holes.

Just when we thought the dive couldn't get any better, we came out from an enclosed area and into the blue. Just about 30 feet away were 2, count them- 2 Hammerhead Sharks!!!! How exciting! Although hammerheads do generally swim in schools, it was rare to see them at all. As soon as they lied eyes on us, they took off in opposite directions. It was just a split second but was such an incredible site! They were about 7-8 feet long! What a thrill!

This was such a warm welcome to diving in Roatan! The island is known for it's reefs and most of the dive sites are just off shore. We decided to get our Advanced Open Water certification while we were here. What better place was there to explore?

Here's a good link to all the dive sites in Roatan.

Snorkel Test

The second night there was a big celebration at the Green Flash bar, the resident bar of Land's End. Joe  was bar tending that night and his buddy Alex was completing his Dive Master training. The last requirement is to pass the Snorkel Test! We were in for a real treat!

We had a front row seat- we had been there since sun down drinking rum and pineapples. An ole guy named Barry had his regular seat at the end of the bar. Eva was busy running around making sure the back up generator didn't blow the house up, and a couple from Massachusetts who were on their honey moon talked with us about the goings on of the island.

Just after dark people started trickling in. You would have never guessed that that many people would show up! It was quite the celebration!

Joe explained the rules of the Snorkel Test to Alex, who had been his first student to complete his Dive Master certification. Basically, he had to wear goggles and a snorkel which acted like a beer bong. Joe gathered a splash from everyone's drink around the bar, and added a few secret ingredients of his own also. (including 2 raw eggs and hot sauce...eek!)

Everyone cheered Alex on and he passed the test with flying colors!! What a rush!! Congratulations to Alex, he was now OFFICIALLY a Dive Master!!

With a warm welcome like this, we couldn't imagine diving with any other group than these guys. We signed up to dive with Atlantic Sea Divers and Joe would be our instructor.

Buenos Días- Austin to Roatan

We had an early morning flight out of Houston. It was faster for us to drive to Houston rather than flying. We were to leave our house at 2 am- flight left at 5:40 am. The trip creped up on me- I had a giant workload and still had packing to do. I hadn't felt this close to exhaustion in a while. After turning on my auto responder, it was finally time to sit down and take a breather. We contemplated taking a 30 minute nap or loading up the car. We said goodbye to Loki and Aries and were glad that Kevin was staying at the house while we were gone to look after them.

Alex was nice enough to drive the entire way and I laid across the back seat. We arrived in plenty of time to get through security and board the plane. We both dozed on and off and woke up just in time to take in the rolling green mountains of El Salvador as the sun rose. Rivers flew in and out of the crevices of land.

We had a short stay at the bustling airport and quickly made our way to the mush anticipated island of Roatan. I gazed out the small window and my excitement grew! We flew over turquoise water and undeveloped landscape. It was just before 10 am!

A taxi driver escorted us to his car and rolled down the windows. The wind blew through our hair and the morning sun glistened through the trees as we zoomed by. We were headed to West End, to a small bed and breakfast that Alex found on Trip Advisor. Little did we know, Land's End would be such an integral part in our time there.

Eva greeted us and promptly got us settled in our ocean front room. She explained how the "Honesty Bar" worked and gave us a bamboo notepad to keep track of our beers. It was hot and sticky so we changed into our bathing suits and headed into town up the dirt path.

We walked down the main road and came across a lunch spot that served fried chicken, coconut rice, beans and plantains.

After a little more exploring, we stopped in the little convenient store and got a couple ice cold beers and headed to the beach. With our toes in the sand, we closed our eyes and at last, we were here!