Diving in Komodo National Park!!

What an experience! Komodo is notorious for some of the best diving in the WORLD! We had so much fun diving and can't wait to go back for more! The currents are generally very strong and the underwater life is abundant and diverse. The Indian and Pacific Oceans meet here. The water is a comfortable warm temperature and the visibility is great at 25-30 feet. We did four dives off of Flores Island, in and around Komodo National Park.

We spent a few days getting rid of our sea legs and talking to all of the dive shops on the island. We ran into the lost divers at our hotel and we were glad to see that they were ok. We decided to go with the crew that rescued the lost divers. We choose an easy low current dive for the first day. We loved every minute of it. Diving is so relaxing, it feels like you are floating through space. Each time a fish swam close by I realized how effortless their movements are.

We spent the evenings in Labuan Bajo with David and his family, sharing stories of all of our adventures. It's a quaint little town right on the coast. We enjoyed the slow pace of life there. One thing that was irritating was that our hotel was smack dab in the middle of two Mosques so five times a day we were forced into listening to the prayers over the loud speakers. I think Alex said it best when he said "Religion and loud speakers just don't mix." One evening we took a walk through a back alley and waved to the women and children in the streets. Goats hurried by and everyone stopped what they were doing to smile at us.

The second day we determined that we were prepared for a slightly difficult dive. As the group gathered around the dive master on the deck of the boat, he says "Now, this is the spot that we had some trouble at a few days ago, but all that is over now. You are going to have a great dive here today." Just then Alex and I turned to each other and thought "Oh boy!" This was the exact site where the divers went missing!!! We didn't realize that we were going to be the very next people to dive this site! One of the girls on our boat turned out to be an ABC news reporter who was there to film our experience. We were each interviewed but we are unsure if the story ever aired.

Dive 3 was breathtaking!! I don't even know how to explain the feeling. It's a drift dive so as soon as you jump in the water you immediately go under. The island is in the shape of a triangle and we were swimming in the protected area. The sea wall is at least 100 feet tall and as wide as you can see in both directions. Every color and texture of coral live in these waters. The fish life is copious; there are all sorts of things that we had never seen before. The current was especially strong that day. We were instructed to stay right next to the sea wall and stay behind our guide. Once you start noticing that the fish are swimming up straight, it's time to turn around because the current is too strong. Drift diving is different from other dives because everything is moving by you very quickly. Once Alex and I turned around to find our instructor and he had both of his arms straight out, flying through the water like an airplane. He nodded and gave us a big smile and two thumbs up. All we could think was "Man, I bet he loves his job!" We saw Lion Fish, Stone Fish, Napoleon, Tuna, Scorpion Fish, Puffers, Angel, Clown Fish, etc. There was so much to look at! We have to go back there again. SOON!!!

The next dive was even better. (If you can believe it!) The site was an island about the size of our living room. Hovering at 75 feet, two white tip sharks caught our attention. They were less than 10 feet below us. It was a mother shark and her young and they were asleep on the coral. I could see their gills moving in and out as they breathed. My heart was racing. These weren't the nurse sharks that we saw in Belize, these were the real deal! We hovered over them for about 5 minutes, clinging to the coral to keep us in place. Just when I felt comfortable our guide motioned for us to turn around. There was another white tip shark swimming right above us!! It was exhilarating!! We saw at least 8 sharks. I motioned for Alex to turn around and look up at the sun shining through the water. Just then another white tip swam past the ray of sun on a backdrop of the seawall. It was picture perfect! We really wish that we had an underwater camera but we'll have to freeze that moment in our minds instead.

We stopped to look at some shrimp in hopes to see a seahorse but instead I looked right below me and there was a 10 foot sea snake slithering through the coral that I was near. It was a brilliant blue with black strips. I'm glad that it wasn't interested in me! Alex, however, spotted a foot long tuna who was very interested in him. He decided to reach out to touch it and the tuna took off as quickly as he could. Just then thousands of reef fish ducked in the coral to protect themselves. They keep an eye on what the big fish are doing!

When we got out of the boat we were so excited! I don't think I've ever felt the same excitement! The sensation overcame us and we realized how fortunate we were to be able to see the underwater world in all of it's glory. We were fulfilled because we saw even more than we imagined.

There are so many Indonesian islands to explore. Now we know of some excellent spots to come back to and want to visit many others. It's important to take full advantage of swimming with the underwater life because of all of the pollution and global warming. We are so lucky to experience that and will never forget the majestic seas of Komodo National Park.

Boat Trip through the Indonesian Islands

This was definitely one of the highlights of our trip!! We were able to take a 4 day/3 night boat trip headed east through tiny deserted islands. We were out in the open sea with no other boats around!! We had a crew of 4 men who knew the seas like the back of their hand. In fact, there were no compass or radio on board and when we asked how they knew we were going in the right direction, the captain said "We use the stars to guide us."

Kevin, Alex and I first hit up a grocery store for a few essentials. The caption took a survey of how many beers we would like. I think we had 4 cases of Bintang between us; after all, we would be confined to a boat for the next several days and we don't want to be stuck without our Bintang! There were about 12 other people on board so we all piled into a beat-up hippy van and headed towards the dock. We had only seen a tiny picture of the boat we would be sailing on so we were all a little curious about the accommodations. Along the way, our driver stopped to pick up a few essentials for the trip; we made a ice run at an ice factory, loaded up about 20 cases of Bintang on top of the van, and picked up two chickens for our eating pleasure.

We had a great group. There were several Belgiums, some Slovakians, and an adorable British family. David and his family are traveling for 14 months and had visited New Zealand, India, and most of Southeast Asia. Charlotte is 9 years old and Adam is 7. We had a blast hanging out with them and hearing about all of their amazing adventures. It just goes to show ya that just because you have children doesn't mean that you can't travel. The kids remember ever detail of their travels. They learned much more this year that they ever could in a classroom. They truly are an inspiration.

Day one was fantastic!! We sailed off into the horizon as the sun set behind us. We had an incredible view of the vast sea. The temperature was comfortable and the company was friendly. At meal times we would all gather around the bottom deck and sit indian style around the food. There was always plenty to go around. We slept on the top deck of the boat with the sea air brushing our faces as we sailed through the early morning hours.

We awoke to the sun rising as we peered out over the edge of our ship. There were small deserted islands to the left and right of us. We anchored in a cove and swam to shore to visit a waterfall, swimming hole and snorkel around the island. We encountered a huge school of jellyfish on the swim over which came as a bit of a surprise. We sat out on the bow of the boat to watch the sun set and counted the shooting stars overhead.

That night was sailed through the darkness. We went through several straights and the water was very, VERY rough. At some points I think we were all terrified. The boat was rocking violently from side to side and it was completely pitch black. We had no radio or compass but the crew was confident that they knew these waters well. We had to trust them. The stars were bright that night.

Day two we stopped at a small island and trekked up to the top of a mountain. At the top there is an incredible 360 degree panoramic view of Komodo Island (where the Komodo Dragons live). Our group were the only people on the island and we couldn't see any other boats in any direction. Talk about getting off of the beaten path! We were able to snorkel again at a secluded area. Snorkeling is almost as good as diving because the sea life is so abundant and diverse due to the water currents of the Indian and Pacific Ocean that come together. The water is crystal clear and a beautiful shade of turquoise blue.

Later that afternoon we trekked around Komodo Island in hopes to see Komodo Dragons in their natural habitat. It was the beginning of mating season so the dragons were being a little shy. Our guide took us to the camp kitchen were 2 dragons were patiently waiting for leftovers from the staff. We were amazed at their size. These were small at about 8 feet. They really are descendants of dinosaurs of so many millions of years ago. They are very lackadaisical and sun themselves in the afternoon however they can run very fast when attempting to catch their prey. The saliva in their tongues is very poisonous and there is no cure for the bite. The Australian couple told us that when they were there about a week before, a water buffalo had been bitten. We were hoping to see the poor fellow but he was too far from where we were. The dragons bite their prey and then wait several weeks for the infection to set in before going back to feast.

The next morning we visited Rinca Island which is right next to Komodo. Dragons also live there and we were able to see about 15 of the prehistoric creatures in the wild. Adam and Charlotte took a running count of each dragon that we encountered. When we first arrived at the dock, there was a baby Komodo on the pier to greet us. There were several more at the camp site and they were not bothered by us one bit. We were fortunate enough to see them mating which apparently is very rare. A TV crew from BBC's Planet Earth was also arriving to film mating season. We can't wait to see the episode and remember that we were there that day!

On the boat trip into Flores island, we were informed about a group of divers that were lost at sea. They were all dive masters from Europe and had not taken a local guide with them. They got swept out in a strong current and drifted for 8 hours in the sea with no drinking water or food. Eventually they floated to shore on Rinca but had to fight off Komodo Dragons with rocks. They ate clams and mussels while they waited two days to be rescued. They were all ok, just a little shaken up by the whole experience.

We landed on Flores in the late afternoon and were ready to find a shower and bed. We hadn't had any fresh water on the boat and were sleeping on thin mats on the deck. We will probably soon forget the uncomfortable conditions of the boat but will never, ever forget the magnificent beauty of the open sea and Komodo Dragons and Indonesian Islands.

Mataram, Lombok

Mataram is a launching point to the east. We enjoyed it very much because it offered the first opportunity to eat street food like we loved so much in Vietnam. It's not directly on the coast so very few tourists stay there for long because there are so many beautiful beaches nearby. We befriended a local who introduced us to a few traditional dishes to order at an open aired restaurant across the street from our guesthouse. We encountered a few people who spoke English but most of the locals gave us a gazing stare followed by a smile as we passed them on the sidewalk. We enjoyed sitting on the balcony of our guesthouse planning our next adventure.

One evening we discovered a street stall that made Teran Bulan, a very unhealthily but delicious dessert. It's made in a large baking pan over a propane tank. The pastry is made of two layers of thick cake with chocolate sprinkles, condensed mile, shredded cheese and two enormous clumps of butter in between. We were unsure about the combination at first but the flavors melted in our mouths the moment it hit our tongues. Butter was dripping off our fingers. We felt guilty after eating so unhealthy, but damn, it was good!

We took a short ride to Sengigi Beach were we rented a mask and snorkel. It's unbelievable how much diversity is just a few feet off shore. We saw a Lion Fish and a foot long clam in a small rock maybe 20 feet out. We were the only tourists on the beach that day and we joked around with the "pineapple ladies" as they walked by with baskets of fruit on their heads.

A walk through the local farmer's market had a very different feel than those in Vietnam. This island is predominately Muslim. Women dress with head coverings and men wear a traditional sarongs tied at their waist. Everyone was very friendly and offered us free samples of their fruits and vegetables.

We knew that cock fighting was a past-time of Indonesians and we couldn't pass up the opportunity of witnessing one first hand. Our local friend told us of one that was getting started in about an hour so we jumped on the first horse drawn buggy that we found. We were dropped off at a small narrow alleyway that lead back to a neighborhood. The yard was fenced off on all sides. As soon as we rounded the corner and came through the entrance, every head in the place turned to look at us. We were the only foreigners and I was the only woman in the entire place. (Except for an 80 year old woman who's home we were at.) All eyes were on us! We tried to blend in as much as possible so we bet on the first round. Kevin and Alex threw in a collective $3.70. We were standing on a wooden bench and I could see the roosters as the men tied the razor blades to their feet. As soon as the fighting began, everyone huddled around so we couldn't see a thing. I don't know how they determine who the winner is because both of the chickens died. Of course we lost the bet, but hey, it was a 50/50 shot! It was a very intense 5 minutes. As soon as the fighting was over Kevin looked up at us and said "Well, should we get outta here?" I think we were all on the same page, after all, it was 11 a.m. on a Wednesday morning.

We met an Australian couple who just returned from a boat trip through the eastern Indonesian islands and we quickly signed up for the adventure. We knew that the accommodations may be a little rough but the idea of sailing through the islands sounded just like what we were looking for!!

Ubud, Bali

The transportation in Bali is not what we were accustomed to. Roads conditions are poor and we were told that a bus ride from Kuta to Ubud would take several hours. We decided to rent a private car and save some time. Ubud is known as a cultural destination. The modernness of Kuta is nonexistent and the pace of life is much slower. Ubud is inland and we came there to visit the Monkey Sanctuary. It's tucked away in the rice fields and mountains of green lush jungle.

The first night Alex, Kevin and I went out to a nice dinner at the Dirty Duck Restaurant. Alex is a big fan of duck and the atmosphere was magical. None of the tables have chairs, we sat Asian style with mats and pillows. Our table was perched in a bamboo bungalow overlooking a coy pond. It was nice to have Kevin around, Alex and I hadn't had anyone else to talk to in a while and we had plenty of stories to share.

Later that evening we walked down to a small bar and ended up inviting our waiter to join us. He was very interested in our culture and wanted to practice his English.

The next day we visited the Monkey Sanctuary were families of long tail macaques run freely. There are about 1,000 of these little guys and they are not shy at all. We purchased two bunches of bananas at the entrance but they didn't last long. The monkeys actually climb on you to reach them! They are very friendly and are accustomed to being near humans. We saw so many tiny babies gripping tight to their mothers. I love it!!!
I could have stayed there with them all day. The temple is ornately decorated and the natural scenery is unlike any I'd ever seen.

We also visited several other Hindu temples in the area. In this area, most of the people are Hindu and they pray openly several times a day. After saying the first morning prayer, they slip a tropical flower behind their ear. Rice is placed on the forehead in the afternoon and a jar of holy water blesses their restaurants and homes. Offerings lay on the sidewalk to keep away bad spirits. One of the temples we visited was known as the Goa Gajah Fertility Temple and people have traveled there for thousands of years to pray for the blessing of children.
Inside the cave you can see fragmentary remains of Lingam, the symbol of the Hindu God Shiva, and its female counterpart the Yoni, plus a statue of Shiva's son, the elephant headed God Ganesha. In the yard in front of the cave are two square bathing pools with water gushing into them from waterspouts held by six female figures. The water is believed to come from a holy river thousands of miles away in India. To the left of the cave entrance in a small pavilion, is a statue of Hariti, surrounded by children.


We also visited the Bat Temple. The cave is also said to lead all the way to India, but nobody has yet volunteered to confirm this since the bats provide sustenance for the legendary giant snake, Naga Basuki, which is also believed to live in the cave. This ancient reptile is believed to be the caretaker of the earth's equilibrium, a belief which stems from pre-Hindu animism. A distinctly batty stench exudes from the cave and the roofs of the temple shrines in front of the cave are liberally coated with bat droppings. Superficially, the temple is small and unimpressive, but it is very old and of great significance to the Balinese. Goa Lawah Temple is one of the island's nine special Sad Kahyangan Temples, and as such it is the designated holy place to honor the God Maheswara, who resides in this section of the island. Religious processions visit the temple every day, and it is a particular focus for religious rites associated with death.

We enjoyed learning about Balinese culture and religion. It's nice to talk with people of other religions and it helps us realize that we are free to choose our own believes.

Ubud is also home to the largest bird and reptile zoos in the area. They house all types of species from around the world. Our favorite part of the day was seeing a pair beautiful blue and scarlet Macaws fly freely above us. It's rare to see the full wingspan of these majestic creatures. Of course the guys loved the reptiles and the feeding of a Komodo Dragon.

From Ubud we took a 6 hour ferry ride to Lombok, the next island over.

Indonesia - Kuta Beach, Bali

We arrived to Bali late. The runway is surrounded by water on both sides and the waves crash as you approach land. You can see the lights of civilization illuminating the coast line.

We needed to get past immigration to reach the ATM, they only accept local currency for VISAS. As we asked to go through, the immigration officer told me to wait there while Alex crossed the line of armed officers. When he returned, the officer said that we could give him our money and he would run our passports through, for a small charge of about $2. It saved us some valuable time waiting in line, and just happened to be the second immigration officer that day that was willing to "help" us.

As we drove into Kuta Beach by taxi, McDonalds, Pizza Hut and KFC passed our window. I was disgusted and told Alex that we should leave ASAP, that we should find somewhere more secluded. Keep in mind, we hadn't seen any recognizable chains since Thailand as Vietnam has strict laws forbidding most foreign chains.

We selected a small guesthouse from our trusty counterfeit Lonely Planet (that we bought back in Siem Reap for $5). The taxi driver said that the street was too small to drive so he dropped us off at the Mickey D's and we were told to walk "about 200 yards" to the hotel. By this point is was reaching midnight. We hurried down the narrow alleyway, turned left and veered right and finally came across some guesthouses about 10 minutes later. Full. Next one was too expensive. And the next was dirty. We searched and searched. Every time we arrive at a new town, Alex lets me go into the rooms while he waits outside with our bags. I always compare at least 3 or 4 guesthouses to insure that we are getting the best value then we decide on one. I was having a tough time and it was really late and dark in the narrow alley. My standards were high; coming from Vietnam where we could get a room with A/C, a balcony, small fridge, international TV and a clean bathroom for $10. On the outside, these guesthouses have a beautiful charm, fresh flowers, small gardens, swimming pools...but the rooms could have used a fresh coat of paint and bleach.

We eventually settled in near the end of the alley way at the Suri Balley Guesthouse. We were curious about our new surroundings and still wide awake so we decided to venture out for a beer at a nearby bar. This was the latest we had been out since the nights of sitting around Johnny's table.

The next day we hit the beach early. Breakfast was included and we were greeted by the manager who had a tropical flower behind his right ear. He served us a pitcher of coffee and banana pancakes. Alex was anxious to check out the surf and I was looking forward to stretching out my beach mat with a good book. The beach was just what you'd expect from a postcard, beautiful white sand, tan people, massive waves, palm trees, women walking around with pineapples on their heads, children playing in the sand. Ahhh....paradise! An offering was laid in the sand by a Hindu group.

It only took Alex a few trys to become a surfing pro. In a matter of an hour, he was riding the waves in like the old guys do in Riding Giants. You can rent boards for about $2 a day. We had been looking forward to getting back to the beach.

We were waiting for our friend Kevin to meet us in Kuta the next day. He was going to be with us for the next 2 weeks. Kevin's plane was delayed so he arrived the next day about noon. I decided to be silly and made a sign for him to hold up at the airport. When you exit the airport, there are taxi drivers and hotel staff dressed in traditional outfits holding up a sign with their guest's name on it. I was trying to blend in. We managed to entertain ourselves with the locals while we waited. We considered picking Kevin up in a horse drawn cart but figured that would take too long so we opted with the taxi. Next time tough, it's on!

We dropped Kevin's bags off and hit the beach again. Sunset is just incredible. You've got a panoramic view of the entire sky. Silhouettes walk by with surf boards. Flowers drop near my mat.

Right across from the beach is a small 7/11 convenient store. They have a small outdoor patio out front with tables, chairs, traditional music, and sea breeze. It makes for the perfect spot to relax with a beer (at the 7/11!) and people watch. We loved the concept! Later that night we decided to check out the night life since Kevin was in. We wandered in the Bounty Bar which had 4 clubs in one. We first stopped to listen to a regee band who quickly pulled me up to dance. Then we made our way back to the Foam Party for some real entertainment. Four punch bowls later and it was time for bed.

We spent the remainder of our days in Kuta on the beach and Alex was improving his surfing skills every minute. He realized how strong your upper body must be, the waves are 20 feet high and paddling out against the tide is challenging. He wanted to stay here forever to surf, but we only had 4 weeks left and so much else to see....