We prepare the boat for the sail south to Norman Island. After closing all of the hatches we wait for the dock to empty so we can fill up our tanks with fresh water for showers. The boat is equipped with 2 large tanks and we were more than half way empty. We wanted to fill up here because we were unsure if we would find another place to fill up. Having fresh water on board was a luxury. We could enjoy long warm showers and not have to be concerned too much with how much we used. Filling up both tanks was only $7-- not bad!
We motor past Scrub Island on it's north west side and found ourselves sailing down the middle of Sir Francis Drake Channel. We imagined Christopher Columbus sailing these same waters in 1493. He discovered the Lesser Antilles island chain on his second voyage.
The seas were manageable. Winds were at about 15-20 knots. Headed due south, we did experience a little rockiness. I'm sure I was very obvious with my body language but I was really trying to keep my cool about tipping so much from left to right. I just don't like being rocked back and forth so much. I sat on the edge of my seat with my feet planted firmly. One hand was holding onto the bar behind me and the other was securely holding onto Alex's arm for reassurance.
He's a spectacular skipper and sailed most of the way. I took control a couple of times when Alex reefed the main and checked the charts. When we turned downwind we pulled out a reefed jib but still kept the motor on to give us an extra boost. It was another enjoyable ride.
We passed The Baths at Virgin Gorda on our left and planned to come back there on our next trip. We would have loved to stopped there for lunch but figured we better keep moving since we were unsure of how long it would take us. The beach at The Baths shows evidence of the island's volcanic origins where deposited granite eroded into piles of boulders on the beach. The boulders form natural tidal pools, tunnels, arches and scenic grottoes that are open to the sea. The largest boulders are about 40 feet (12 m) long.
We pulled into The Bight at Norman Island around 2 in the afternoon which was earlier than we expected. Traditionally explorers defined a bight as a bay that could be sailed out of on a single tack. I say it's because it looks like a pirate took a big bite out of the island.
Legend plays a large part in the history of Norman Island with tales of pirates and treasure caves. With an area of 610 acres, the island is approximately 2 ½ miles long with a central ridge extending along the length of the island creating gently rolling hills. Norman Hill is the highest point at 427 feet above sea level. The coast line comprises a number of bays and offshore reefs providing excellent snorkeling. Norman Island lies close to the international boundary line separating the British Virgin Islands from the US Virgin Islands.
Norman Island has a history involving pirates and treasure. Norman was the inspiration for the famous Caribbean epic book Treasure Island by Robert Louis Stevenson. The influence of Treasure Island on popular perception of pirates is vast, including treasure maps with an "X", schooners, the Black Spot, tropical islands, and one-legged seamen with parrots on their shoulders.
As we approach the anchorage, we pick a mooring ball and attach to it on our first try. We let out a big "Hooray!" as this was the longest journey that we had left on our trip and in reality it really wasn't that long at all.
We prepare sandwiches for lunch and celebrate with an ice cold Heineken. Just then a 6 foot tarpon circles under our boat! Alex is amused and quickly grabs his mask and snorkel. We feed him some bread and were amused at him hanging out in the shade of our boat.
We were really looking forward to diving and we read that there was a dive shop on shore. We dinghy to the dock and head straight for the tiny dive shop. It was more of a wooden shack on the beach. A short stocky Australian guy greeted us but unfortunately they didn't have any dive trips for tomorrow. Their other branch located on Cooper Island was going out to Anegada to dive a Japanese refrigeration vessel but they were unable to pick us up since it was so far out of the way.
Anegada is the only inhabited British Virgin Island formed from coral and limestone, rather than being of volcanic origin. While the other islands are mountainous, Anegada is flat and low. Its highest point is only about 28 feet (8.5 m) above sea level, earning it the name which translates as “the drowned land.”
Many moons ago the Anegada Passage was considered the entrance to the Caribbean, and the protected waters of the Sir Francis Drake Channel attracted merchantmen and pirates alike. It's a spectacular destination for diving because there are so many wrecks. Anegada's reefs are a shipwreck treasury, with over 300 wrecks off its shore. 1/2 took place between 1654 and 1899.
The many hidden coves along with shallow waters and complex reef systems provided the perfect spot to ravage passing ships carrying riches from the New World back to Europe. The islands became a favored hangout of famous scoundrels such as Blackbeard, Bluebeard and Sir Francis Drake.
Tom handed us a printed map of the trails on the island so we took off in search of treasure. We weren't really prepared for a hike (flip flops and no water) but we are always up for an adventure.
We walked behind the dive shop and came to a steep gravel trail. At the top, there is a nice rock perch which is the perfect place to sit and take in the scenery. From here you can see a panoramic view of the entire island. There is an overgrown trail that leads down to the beach on the other side of the island but since we weren't wearing our Tevas, we stuck to the more well traveled path. We didn't see any other people the entire time and this reminded us of the island we hiked near Komodo.
It's a breathtaking view from the top. White sand beach surrounds the island, reef offers protection and turquoise water is calming. We follow the main trail around a few curves and pass openings in the trees which offer a beautiful view of our surroundings.
Hermit crabs rustle in the brush and we stop to admire them. We came across so many that were dead. I wondered what happened, it's almost like someone or something came and attacked them. Later we learned that wild cattle and goat roam here so we hope that it was caused by natural means and not by people. I did manage to find a couple of empty shells so I keep them as souvenirs. I hope this did not disrupt a small crab's house hunting endeavor by too much.
The land is very dry here. All of the islands are so different. Some are lush and green, some are rocky, others flat. The diversity makes exploring each island unique.
As we get back to the shore, we notice that all of the bars and restaurants are closed for down season. It just so happens that they closed yesterday and won't open until the snow birds come in November. We ran into some other hungry sailors who pointed out that Willy T's was open for dinner. Little did we know that we were in for a treat!
We head back to our boat for some R&R and take in a beautiful pink and purple sunset. After freshening up, we dinghy over to the dock at the floating restaurant and tie our dinghy up in a sea of others. The place was packed!
The back 1/2 of the boat is devoted to the restaurant. Picnic tables are full of patrons and the open kitchen is bustling. A line formed at the counter where hungry sailors placed their food orders.
Alex ordered up a delicious meal of Anegada Conch fritters and jumbo shrimp! It was my first time to eat Conch but its was soooo good! (I'm craving it now)
Conchs are the mollusks that live in the large beautiful spiral shells. In 2003, the export of Queen Conch shells was prohibited from the Caribbean. Many types of Conch live among sandy bottoms among beds of sea grass in tropical waters.
As we're eating a small motor boat pulls up next to the floating restaurant and ties on. The captain looks like an American and has a young local guy with him. The older, fat American man made quite a spectral of himself because he kept going around from table to table asking if everything was alright and if we needed anything. We thought he might be the owner but come to find out he was just a crazy old guy who wanted attention.
The front 1/2 of the old ship is designated for the bar and is complete with flashing lights, loud music and a hoppin' dance floor. We meet a group of 9 Canadians who are on a sailing trip together. They are young and friendly so we instantly struck up a conversation. The drinks started flowing!
A picture book was being passed around the bar. It was from the 90's (when people still used pictures books..hello!) Those must have been fun times at Willy T's! There were women jumping off the back of the boat topless and people doing body shots. The crowd we were hanging out with did their best to recreate those legendary moments. I couldn't help but think that Perry would love this place! lol
After a few more (strong) rum punch drinks, Alex and I hit the dance floor. The local guy, "Hollywood" showed his dance moves and a group of locals really got their bump and grind on. Ummmm, Wow!
A group of young Puerto Ricans take a 4 person shot and the old man flings his shirt off and jumps off the boat of the boat into the dark water! It was a hilarious site and everyone was really enjoying themselves!
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