After a quick rejuvenation of coffee and breakfast, we pile our fins, masks and snorkels into our trusty dingy and head out for the longest ride yet. She had been reliable since Alex fiddled with her back on Mayo Bay. Crossing the channel in a jiffy was necessary. With sun overhead, waves crossed our bow and yachts approach on the horizon. We arrive at a spectacular rock formation- the Indians.
Here in the shallow "fish bowl," swirling clouds of bait fish are pursued by jacks and snappers below and dive-bombed by pelicans above. These rock pinnacles rise and descend roughly fifty feet both above and below the water.
The Indians are the second most popular dive site in the British Virgin Islands after the wreck of the RMS Rhone. The four rocks are so named because from a distance they were thought to resemble a head dress of a Native American.
We moor up and jump in the warm waters of the Sir Francis Drake Channel. Directly below us is a stunning coral wall. The rocks extend another 50 feet deep to form a diverse collection of colorful coral. This was the best display of coral we had seen yet!
A yellow fin snapper swam 5 feet below me on my left side as I examined everything in sight. An abandoned conch shell lay on the sandy floor. We could see clear down to the bottom.
Just at that moment, I hear an enormous splash 2 feet away on the surface. Four terodactyl looking birds (pelicans, lol) swoop down in the water. Alex yells "Look what's right behind you!" Nerve racked, I quickly turn 180 degrees to see a school of jack and a school of brightly colored blue fish an arm's length away being attacked from the surface. The pelicans enjoyed their breakfast. It was incredible to be right in the middle of this.
We snorkeled all around the huge rocks before heading back towards our dingy. Afterwards we zoom back over to the Bight to partake in a celebratory beer and bit of relaxation.
A visiting sea turtle examines us from a distance. Hawksbill sea turtles are endangered in the BVI so this was a rare sight. Alex periodically searches for his friend the tarpon.
As we sip on cold Heinekens, we provide commentary for the nearby sailors attempting to moor. At this point we're pros so we can afford a few laughs. (j/k)
Our afternoon excursion was around Treasure Point to the Caves where pirates once stored their treasure. Extending about 100 feet into the cliffs, they are only about 4 feet deep so you are very up close and personal with all of the sea life around you. It's best if you have a waterproof flashlight. It gets dark quickly and can be a little terrifying since you are in such an enclosed area and can't see anything in the dark. We decided to turn back when a jellyfish swam by at eye level with Alex. (I made him go first so he could protect me from the unknown.) You must keep your body buoyant on the salty surface so you don't scrape coral.
Along the cliff walls next to the caves are impressive coral walls that extend far and deep in either direction. We enjoyed exploring there before heading back to Ryajen. It looked like an afternoon rain was rolling in. We made it safely aboard without a drop so we toasted with a pineapple rum drink to celebrate! Just before sunset we scooted over to Willy T's for another fun filled evening.
It was packed then as well. Picnic tables were full and the bar was hopping. Next to us, there was a group of "30 something" men and their adorable young daughters. Curly blond hair in pig tails and tanned skin, they must have been on a daddy/daughter trip. The oldest one wore a "real pirate bandanna" and kept asking if they could get pirate tattoos (stick-ons) and dance on the bar. Willy T teaches them young! The girls were so cute! Alex and I day dreamed about when we would have a family of our own someday. We enjoy seeing young families on our travels.
Tonight's menu consisted of the delicious Anegada conch shell (we couldn't pass it up since it was a specialty) and fried chicken. At the bar, locals commanded the dance floor and everyone enjoyed the music and especially strong rum drinks.
A woman we recognized from earlier was helping Simon out at the bar. She runs a small boat named Deliverance and goes around to all the boaters selling odds and ins such as ice, beer, cokes, bread, etc to the visitors. It's a good little business and she seems to enjoy the scenery.
We asked Simon if the flamboyant man from last night was the owner of Willy T's. "I have no bloody idea who that guy was. He comes around here acting like the owns the joint." HA! What a sad existence we thought.
Between slamming shots and controlling the entire bar, Simon managed to DJ from is iPod. He liked Alex so much that every 30 minutes or so, he'd pour 3 Jager shots for us. I think he'd forget that we already did a shot but he seemed to be enjoying himself. He did an amazing job running the whole bar- having a blast and getting drunker as the night wore on.
There were some characters there that night. An Englishmen named Miles came right up to me and laid a kiss on my check. He had no concern that Alex was right beside me. His sister "Aim-ee" (very drawn out English pronunciation) eyed him from across the bar. An American woman sat beside us. I complimented her on the pretty shell necklace she wore. I asked her where she was from. "Alabama, but everyone always thinks we're from Texas" she uttered with a southern draw. She didn't talk to me for the rest of the night when we told her we really were from Texas. Drunk muchisimo Puerto Rican guy from last night came over to talk to us. Turns out he is moving to New Orleans to go to college. Hope he doesn't blow all of daddy's money on Bourbon Street! Last night he was such an ass to Simon. "My name is Manuel Rodriguez Rodriguez..."
We had a great time at Willy T's. It was the first island bar that we had gone to. Everything else was closed or non existent. Our bill came and it was surprisingly only $54, including a T-Shirt. We thanked Simon and let him a hearty tip.
The nightlight overhead lead us back home to our boat. We curled up and rested happily.
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